Make sure you keep a fast eye on the window as you do this as it will almost certainly drop. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. It's been a while since I've posted on the Sportz forums, so hello to everyone. The brushes are so worn that the motors spindle slips in and out of the motor casing without even having to press the carbon brushes in on their springs. Carefully retract the springs that are holding the old brushes in place and slide the old brushes out. Parts Train is certainly the home of hard-to-find car parts and accessories.
The driver's side window motor has completely given up the ghost and a new one is required. You'll find 2 screws beneath the trim which can be taken off with a posi screw driver, or a socket wrench with a no. Also have you treid my window repair guide? Nissan 350Z Replacement Window Switch Information Search our online window switch catalog and find the lowest priced discount auto parts on the web. Be careful as they sand away surprisingly fast! Now you may need to slightly modify the size of the replacement carbon brushes you purchased unless you're lucky and they fit perfectly straight away. This article will show you how to disassemble the door on your 350Z and replace your window motor.
It may have been easy to remove, but now that there's 2 new brushes in the way it can take a few attempts to get the magnetic driver back in place. Basically you want to keep the window from falling. It would be handy to either have another pair of hands at this point, or make good use of the Gaffa Tape by temporarily sticking it to the window and the door in order to stop the window from falling. These do have a tendency to break when removing the door card, so you may want to buy some spares from Nissan, but I find that if one or two sheer it doesn't stop the door card from affixing tightly again afterwards. I really hope your repair works and I echo everything you've said about that part being so unreasonably expensive. It's this mess that can stop the window working.
I can't believe you can basically buy approximately 30 new window motors from Nissan - or a brand new Z!!! Now on the inside of the panel, you will need to locate the backside of the interior door handle. Try not to melt the plastic of the window motor whilst getting the soldering iron in there, but it doesn't matter too much if you do - like I did ;- With the two wires de-soldered remove the white retaining clip and slide the carbon brush housing from the window motor. I'm waiting for Alex or Lee to get more in stock at the moment. Using the fillips head screw driver, remove the 3 screws to remove the window motor. The cable spool is what winds up the cables, thus making your window go up, and unwinding them, makes it go down of course. I think it's much easier just replacing the original stuff. To get them to go together properly, i had to plug the motor into the harness, turn the key on, and hook the switch back up — then play with it up and down until the male and female lined up properly.
Really this job was fairly easy, and only requires one person and very little tools - basic tools at that. These hold the motor firmly in position, but don't worry about the motor falling as it's also held in by cables and won't go anywhere. The lower 2 nuts will need removing with a spanner or socket. The factory solder is tough stuff and may take a little while to melt before you can remove it all. When you say it is totally dead what do you mean? Only took about 30 seconds.
You'll find 2 screws beneath the trim which can be taken off with a posi screw driver, or a socket wrench with a no. Next it's time to remove the jelly-like sealant on the window motor's main housing - though only on one side! But if you can find it for cheaper, let everyone know. Locate the 3 screws, on the back side of the motor bracket, which secure the motor to the cable spool. Sorry to dig up old posts, but I'm hoping this new addition will be of interest to some people and hopefully useful too. A solid press and a strong wiggle will have it come apart. Locate the wire harness for the window motor in the upper right corner of the metal door panel.
The cable spool is what winds up the cables, thus making your window go up, and unwinding them, makes it go down of course. Remove those screws with a Posi Driver and the motor will be free and ready for repair. We're interested in the one with the white plastic clip holding it in place and covered in a white-ish glue. The size of the original brush is approx. Keep the glue to one side so it can be reused later. When i got everything together and tried the window, it only went up half way, i had to shut the door and close it to get it to go all the way up, and it worked fine ever since.
How long do you think it would take to come through the American channels? I should get the Zed back tomorrow as the motor will take a couple of days to be delivered. Sorry to dig up old posts, but I'm hoping this new addition will be of interest to some people and hopefully useful too. The lower 2 nuts will need removing with a spanner or socket. You need to remove the electric cables from the window switch module by pushing in on the white plastic release catch within the connection terminal. With a small flat head driver carefully remove the sealant making sure not to damage any of the wires or connectors beneath. There will also be two white tabs on the backside of the panel that secure the female end of the window motor wire harness to the panel. I just used a scalpel to slice through the copper cable at their soldered points and then rocked the cable back and forth until it came completely free.
The 2 top hex screws can be removed with a posi screw driver, a spanner or socket. Unfortunately to get to the brushes you still need to strip the motor which involves a bit of soldering and unsoldering wires 2 or 3 but looks easy from when I looked. They are independent publications and are not affiliated with or endorsed by or. So it's a good idea at this stage to check that the brushes do actually need replacing very likely and rant just filthy dirty therefore stopping the required electrical contact. Remove the cables that operate the door lock, and opening mechanism. Place the tip of the soldering iron over and through the de-soldering wick to melt the old solder and attach it to the wick for simple removal.