I had heard nothing but great things about Bryce. Thank you Funny, I read this thread some time last year, bought the gear to do the change, but never got round to doing it- until today! Luckily, he dealt with an honorable dealer that fixed the trans for him. Perhaps I should talk to my local dealerships and see what kind of repairs are common to them and costs associated with them? Remove Intake Manifold Remove air intake plenum by removing 4 expanding fasterners. · Re-attach all vacuum and evap. We'll know soon enough if the part inside the pump fails again, or if it was just a bad pump. If you've got an impossible issue I recommend Bimmerscan! Disconnect Battery Battery is located in the trunk underneath a plastic plate which is held down by two plastic fasteners. Remove Air Filter and Cover If you have the xenon option on your car, you will need to remove the wires that connect to the ballast and loosen the ballast housing.
It sounds like the accumulator is out - but if you know how to use the diagnostic system it'll show this straight away as you can get live readings on accumulator pressure. With all that said, there are a number of symptoms that have been able to be fixed. Therefore we have developed our Burkhart Engineering High Performance Hydraulic Oil. Given how they've been diagnosing your car I am not so sure. I need help with things like, how reliable is it, what kind of maintenance can I expect, and the costs associated with those maintenances, what components, if any, do usually mess up, etc.
Just when I had given up hope and tried countless resources they came through! And also, in certain emergencies someone needs the only car thats home and most of the time it's mine, so it's useless to them. No need to crawl under the car with this handy set of tubes. Within a day, all my electrical problems were fixed at a very reasonable price! Cheers, Simon yeah I haven't had much luck with this car that's for sure. Cheers Whether it fixes the problem or not, this thread has some of the best, most considered and deduced advice I have seen in a long time. I learned the hard way Remove Air-Box · Remove reservoir supply hose by disconnecting it from reservoir tank.
. However, perhaps the pump is working fine but the accumulator is not holding pressure long enough? Undo the smaller one which sits more to the passenger side of the car and that will swing down Then undo the larger of the trays which sits across the middle of the car, right under the gearbox. . I was unable to remove this but, it gently came off when I pulled out the air-box. If it's not recharging it's usualy a relay issue bonnet switch ect.
Please note that 4 is easy to remove but difficult to install. That's what it is there for right? Bryce truly takes care of his customers. · Discard used hose clamps. Yep, guarantees in life and used cars don't exist. I had to recycle the existing part. The system is not to complicated if diagnosed properly when symtoms occur.
Bimmerscan did the impossible with my car. They are refusing to honor the warranty on the pump, because they say now it's not the pump. But lots to think about before I can. Instead, the clutch is controlled electronically by a computer and actuated by hydraulics. Car runs like a champ. If it gets bad enough the gearbox wont be able to hold gears.
The fluid which came out smelt burnt, had filings, was more water like and when rubbed between my fingers, it wasn't the most lubricating of fluids. Bryce did a quick diagnostics test, and within minutes had an answer for me. . I have talked to Jeff Gray and I am meeting them in the morning. As I said a while ago, I will be going back to my beloved M3.
It is his hobby so he lives trouble shooting and telling you every step of the way. While the box is lowered you should be able to get to the indent spring - I would check that. That said some cars have no problems at the same tracks and one would think the same temperatures. Please consult your shop manual. . You'll also want to read the smg temp to see when it is dropping out of gear to confirm it's not the sensor that's cause fault.
In order to prevent having to cut those lines and towing the car to a dealer to have new lines installed, the last option was to heat up the hydraulic connector housing to loosen up steel line fittings. They have to fit underneath the ballast plastic tabs. This would be step two if you have stubborn lines. Loosen up bolt 5 so that smg pump can move freely inside the brace. Please note: the back of the air-box between air-box and micro filter has two hooks for routing a vacuum line and a wiring harness.
My socket was long enough for the rachet to clear the hydrau lines! As of today, my A4 is gone. I drive a 2009 135i. I do that sometimes if I forget to let the car warm up enough. He even gave me a follow up call to make sure my cars is okay and made sure I took it back for a follow up. Dropping out of gears can be a couple of things - gear position sensor, temp sensor and my money on your issue - Compression spring. Has anyone ever torn a pump down and repaired it? We'll know soon enough if the part inside the pump fails again, or if it was just a bad pump. I wouldn't worry about it and just buy a good car with good maintenance records.